Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) are a class of cosmeceutical skincare acids. They have been used for generations to treat a variety of skin concerns and conditions such as acne and photoaging.
Put simply, AHAs exfoliate the skin. The skin’s outer layers are composed of dead skin cells called corneocytes. The skin naturally sheds its outer layer in specific cycles. However, oftentimes dead skin cells build up on the surface of the skin. The result is either dullness, acne, uneven texture or any combination of the three.
In case you need a refresher, exfoliation removes excess dead skin cells from the surface of the skin which promotes a clear, radiant complexion. In the case of AHAs, exfoliation occurs by breaking apart the bonds that hold dead skin cells to each other and to the surface of the skin.¹ This allows for any dead skin to be shed and make way for new skin cells which will help give you that radiant glow.
Exfoliation with AHAs has benefits over traditional, physical exfoliation with scrubs. This is because scrubs can cause micro scratches and inflammation in the skin thus leading to subpar results.
Not to mention, AHAs also help improve skin that has aged from environmental elements, such as skin that has experienced photoaging. For example, studies have shown measurable decreases in skin roughness, discolouration (hyperpigmentation), as well as an increase in collagen production after using alpha-hydroxy acids products.
That last one is important because collagen actually helps give the skin a fresh, filled-out look. The problem is, as you age, the collagen in your skin breaks down which leaves your skin sagging and dull.
By using AHAs you basically rid your skin of all those damaged fibres in order to make way for new ones. This particular benefit, one of many alpha-hydroxy acids benefits, is particularly helpful if your skin has been damaged by the sun.
With daily use, alpha-hydroxy acids products will also increase the thickness of the dermal layer and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.² Just keep in mind that you should only be using AHA serums with up to 5% concentration of the ingredient if you plan on adding them to your skincare routine permanently. After all, AHA is an acid meaning it can cause irritation, flaky skin or blotchy skin if you overuse it.
The product should also have a pH of 3.5 or more to prevent any imbalances in the skin. That is why it is incredibly important to read the label before buying products containing this ingredient.
Another point to make is that AHAs have been scientifically proven to increase sensitivity to UV rays. So make sure you’re putting on plenty of sunscreen while using this great exfoliant. Don’t get overly concerned though, because this sensitivity will be reversed one week after you stop using the ingredient.
All in all, although it is meant for casual use, and 99.9% of the time you can use it without any repercussions, you’d rather be safe than sorry when it comes to looking after your skin.
Common AHAs found in many skincare formulations include lactic acid, glycolic acid, and mandelic acid. As mentioned previously, depending on their concentration, AHAs may cause some stinging or itching on the skin. They must also be used with a broad-spectrum daily sunscreen. If you experience any of these symptoms while using this product make sure to stop immediately and contact your doctor.
Understandably, the side-effects may seem daunting but the truth is, as long as you’re using products containing AHAs responsibly there’s no reason for you to worry about anything except showing off your shining skin. The benefits and efficacy of this ingredient are too good not to give it a go.
References
Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition. Cosmetics alpha hydroxy acids [Internet]. U.S. Food and Drug Administration. FDA; Available from: https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/alpha-hydroxy-acids.
Green B, Yu R, Van Scott E. Clinical and Cosmeceutical Uses of Hydroxyacids. Clinics in Dermatology. 2009;27(5):495-501.
Kornhauser A, Coelho SG, Hearing VJ. Applications of Hydroxy Acids: Classification, Mechanisms, and Photoactivity. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2010 Nov 24;3:135-42.