Are you planning a dermaplaning treatment anytime soon? Stop. We’ll show you why this procedure destroys the skin, what types of skin is most at risk, and which non-invasive alternatives are better than dermaplaning. So stay tuned!
What is dermaplaning?
Every day, the body produces cells and multiplies, replacing old dead skill cells with newer, healthier ones. The problem is that without exfoliation, dead cells cling on to the skin, ultimately leaving it feeling dull and flaky.
The skin also encounters extra toxins and free radicals from the sun and environmental pollutions, which is why exfoliation, at least nonphysical exfoliation, is important to replenish the cells.
Dermaplaning facial, which literally means shaving layers of the skin, also known as microplanning or blading, is said to be the remedy to removing leftover dead skin cells and facial hair removal as it uses a blade (sometimes referred to as a ‘peach fuzz’) to scrape off all the debris and unwanted hair.
How does dermaplaning work?
The ‘peach fuzz’ blade is held at a 45° angle and scrapes off the top layer of the skin which acts as a physical exfoliator for not only dead skin cells but also any fuzzy hairs straying on the face. This is particularly why women with facial hair tend to go for this treatment, as straggling facial hair makes them feel self-conscious and uncomfortable.
It is only a facial treatment, so it will not affect the eyebrows and eyelashes. Naturally, the body accumulates toxins from environmental pollutions and sun damage, which is why some deem dermaplaning a necessary and perennial treatment.
Its main function is to stop and remove the top barrier of the skin. This sounds promising, but as you shall see, the reality is far starker. Some call it a dead skin remover but the truth is it makes the skin more vulnerable to external damage.
The risks and side effects of dermaplaning
Many clinics tout the so-called benefits of dermaplaning. Some suggest the physical exfoliation provides smoother skin, reduces the appearance of acne and even diminishes signs of ageing like fine lines. What dermatologists underplay, however, is the dermaplaning side effects, which we’ll go through right now.
Although this is partially true, constant shaving the top layer of the skin has long-lasting effects that will inevitably destroy the skin barrier. Aggressive scraping will also cause redness, swelling and irritation, including mild flaking because the blade will irritate the blood vessels.
Because it is a physical exfoliator, the blade, however ‘gentle’ the dermatologists claim it be, still scrapes the dead skin cells and penetrates the top layer of the skin, leaving long term irritation and infections.
The problem with dermaplaning is that much like non-physical exfoliators, the treatment needs to be repeated at least weekly. Reportingly shaving off the skin barrier will cause damage to the epidermis as well as heightening the symptoms of acne. Using a blade to remove facial hair follicles will only make it grow back thicker, entirely having the opposite effect of scraping facial hair. It is an ineffective hair removal method.
These scarring and infections will occur due to a risk of cuts. Any physical deep penetration on the skin runs the risk of also altering the pigmentation, all of which contribute to quickening the signs of ageing.
Does Dermaplaning Makes Skin More Sensitive to Sunlight?
Absolutely. The skin is normally vulnerable when exposed to the sun but is extra vulnerable when its top layer is shaved off.
The outer layer also contains pigment melanin, a vital polymer that gives the skin its colour but also protects the skin from sunburn and soreness from the sun.
Shaving that layer off leaves oxidants and free radicals from the sun and UV rays to enter the top layer, leaving the skin extra damaged and dry. Being vulnerable to sunburns can cause melanoma too, a type of skin cancer that is fatal if the top layer of the skin is compromised.
Sun exposure also causes the skin to produce fewer collagen proteins, and collagen is vital for the skin’s elasticity. Collagen is vital to make the skin firm but considering dermaplaning makes the skin more exposed to the sun, dermaplaning is most certainly not an anti-ageing treatment.
Here’s Why You Need To Avoid dermaplaning
The top layer of the skin is vital to protect it from sun damage, as well as other environmental factors like pollution.
However, even though dermaplaning promises to rejuvenate the skin and remove all dead skin cells, all it really does is shave the skin barrier, causing the skin major irritation, dehydration.
According to a study, there is also little scientific evidence that dermaplaning has long-lasting effects on the skin. And if there is no evidence of its benefits of skin rejuvenation, dermaplaning ultimately a damaging procedure, not a beneficial one.
Here’s why our Cheif Scientific Officer says dermaplaning is not dermoi!:
There is very little scientific evidence to back up dermaplaning for skin health or skin rejuvenation. Studies are needed to prove its benefits, especially since its is physically scraping away the skin barrier (stratum corneum) which can be detrimental for skin health and skin aging.
Alternatives to dermaplaning
A lot of skincare products and treatments promise more than they can achieve. A better alternative to dermaplaning is Vitamin Infusion by Dermoi. It not only has anti-sun-damaging vitamins such as vitamin e but also resurfaces the skin with no physical exfoliation.
Vitamin Infusion also has liposomal delivery to better absorb vitamin a (retinaldehyde). This will resurface the skin and stimulate cell renewal but repairs and reserves the skin barrier at the same time with a no-acid facial peel effect.
No need to ‘gently’ scrape and shave the top layer of the skin because vitamin itself is a potent antioxidant that rids all the dead cells and debris. Find more information here if you’re looking for a non-invasive facial exfoliator.
Another treatment we recommend is a PCA skin facial peel. The bespoke treatment provides customised exfoliation based on skins needs and provides an antioxidant boost for the skin.
It does this by enzymatic, chemical, and retinoid-based exfoliation, a powerful combination that does what dermaplaning can’t do – providing a superficial facial peel that doesn’t leave the skin vulnerable from sun damage and leaving any burning effects.
1 Landon Pryor, Chad R. Gordon, Edward W. Swanson, Richard G. Reish, Kelly Horton-Beeman, Steven R. Cohen – 2011 – Dermaplaning, Topical Oxygen, and Photodynamic Therapy: A Systematic Review of the Literature – Springer Science 1151-1159