Microneedling is one of the latest skincare trends. This blog has everything you need to know about the treatment, from what it is and how it’s performed, to the potential dangers.
What is Microneedling?
Microneedling, or dermarolling, is a procedure that uses fine needles to puncture the skin. It has widespread benefits when used as a transdermal drug delivery system, but in recent years has become a skincare trend.
Microneedling should always be carried out by a dermatologist or other trained medical professional as equipment needs to be effectively sterilised. Home microneedling also carries the risk of increased damage as a result of pressing too hard, ripping the skin, or causing unnecessary irritation.
Microneedling as a Drug Delivery System
Most over-the-counter serums or vitamin facial creams aren’t working as advertised. This comes as a result of the skin’s initial protective barrier, the stratum corneum. This layer acts as a barrier for any molecules trying to pass through the skin. Most molecules are trapped on the skin’s surface, and are unable to penetrate through to reach the site of action.
Microneedling causes tiny punctures in the skin, which act like simulated pores. This creates a new route to enhance the delivery of the drug¹ allowing it to pass through the surface barrier. This method can deliver vitamins and nutrients into the skin, and has future prospects in insulin delivery², among other things.
Why You Need To Be Careful With Aesthetic Deep Microneedling
Deep microneedling, also called collagen induction therapy, is a skin rejuvenation procedure using the microneedling technique. The needle facial treatment works by taking advantage of the skin’s natural self-repair process.
Each puncture triggers the body to fill the newly-produced wounds by stimulating the production of new collagen and elastin. Collagen is a natural protein that plays a vital role in anti-ageing and strengthening the skin. It also benefits skin elasticity and boosts hydration.
The trauma from the microneedling prompts a deeper layer of the skin, known as the derma, to rebuild itself.
It’s reported to temporarily decrease the visible signs of ageing, by tightening the skin and creating a natural glow. It’s also been used to treat skin conditions such as acne, scars and stretch marks.
The treatment however relies on your skin having a healthy response; if your skin is stressed at all, you’re leaving yourself susceptible to serious damage.
Initial Side Effects of Aesthetic Microneedling
There are common after effects following treatment. It can take days or even weeks to heal, depending on the nature of the treatment.
- Dryness + flaking
- Reaction to topical medications used during treatment
Patients Who Are At Higher Risks of Serious Complications
Any patient suffering from a condition that affects natural skin healing is at higher risks of suffering serious complications from aesthetic microneedling.
Microneedling can be seriously damaging to those with:
- Keloid scarring
- Sensitive or impaired skin
- Eczema or dermatitis
- Deep skin tones
- Unstable skin types
- Autoimmune problems
Smokers are also at higher risk, as are those who have had a topical treatment (such as peels or laser) in the last 12 weeks.
Aesthetic Microneedling Can Lead to Premature Ageing
Instead of simulating collagen production, microneedling can cause mechanical damage to the skin’s collagen supplies when not performed properly. The needle tears down the collagen fibers which leads to degradation.
As we age, the ability of our bodies to produce collagen slows down and eventually stops, meaning that once destroyed, it is difficult to replace.
This doesn’t mean that it’s completely safe for young people to receive deep microneedling though; it’s not a free pass to destroy the collagen you have. If your body has to produce more collagen because it’s been destroyed, your bodies ability to make more will decrease at a rapid rate.
Microneedling as an anti-ageing treatment also requires multiple treatments – it’s not a quick fix. Repeated treatment desensitises the receptors responsible for the signalling of collagen synthesis. This can be hugely detrimental to your bodies collagen supplies and lead to premature ageing, as well as the thinning and sagging of the skin.
Other Serious Risks and Complications
Infection is a common side effect of deep microneedling and the complications can be serious. Infections aren’t always obvious either, some look visibly more subtle.
One example of this is skin loosing its ability to heal due to infection. This arises when the body’s immune system is holding the infection in partial check, but lacks the ability to get rid of it completely. In this instance inflammation takes place beneath the skin’s surface and leaves the skin susceptible to new infection, as well as damage from free radicals.
Even without side effects, your skin can take days or even weeks to heal depending on how deep the needles pierce your skin. In this time, your skin is left vulnerable and susceptible to external damage from pollution and other toxins, as well as infection.
Microneedling can also lead to microscopic skin scarring. Whilst the scars may not be visible, the damage caused by the scars soon will be. The more you undergo the treatment, the more scar tissue that will be created. The more scar tissue present in your skin means less space for collagen, elastin and other essential proteins associated with healthy skin to adhere.
Any incorrect procedure in which excess pressure is applied repeatedly with microneedles puts clients at risk of developing scars and/or hyperpigmentation. Any treatments which uses microneedles that are too long or too thick will also leave patients at risk as a result of excess skin trauma. Tram track scars are common with microneedling.³
Any procedure that results in damage or stimulation of melanocytes in the basal layer of the epidermis can also cause pigmentation issues. This is of particular concern for those with deeper skintones.⁴
Dermoi’s Stance On Microneedling
When done in the right way, microneedling can be a great treatment option for skin rejuvenation as it is minimally invasive, non-ablative, and keeps the skin barrier intact, however, certain facials use microneedles in an aggressive way and this can cause facial scarring and pigmentation issues. A credible source for microneedling treatments in which the microneedle depth and procedure is controlled is essential.
How To Get The Benefits of Microneedling, Without The Damage
Vitamin infusion treatments, when carried out by expert dermatologists will deliver effective anti-aging results, without damaging the skin.
Dermoi partnered with industry leader Osmosis Beauty to offer an anti aging vitamin infusion treatment.
Osmosis Beauty was designed by dermatologist Dr. Ben Johnson. Osmosis treats all skin conditions by reducing inflammation and inducing wound repair. As a result of their patented liposomal delivery system, products deliver active ingredients deep into the skin with proven ground-breaking results.
The vitamin infusion treatment instantly rejuvenates, tightens and protects the skin. It’s been proven to stimulate cell turnover, dermal remodelling, and even skin tone and texture due to the unique delivery method.
Pure active powders are also added to brighten age spots, reduce inflammation, and provide extreme antioxidant protection. Galvanic technology, ultrasonic stimulation, vibrational massage, and red LED light therapy are also used to healthily increase penetration of the active ingredients.
Find out more about dermoi’s alternative micro needling treatment here.
Author: Sam Pennington
- Waghule, T., Singhvi, G., Dubey, S., Pandey, M., Gupta, G., Singh, M. and Dua, K., 2019. Microneedles: A smart approach and increasing potential for transdermal drug delivery system. Biomedicine & Pharmacotherapy, 109, pp.1249-1258.
- Wadhwani, A. and Jana, B., 2019. Microneedle – Future prospect for efficient drug delivery in diabetes management. Indian Journal of Pharmacology, 51(1), p.4.
- Pahwa, M., Pahwa, P. and Zaheer, A., 2012. “Tram Track Effect” After Treatment of Acne Scars Using a Microneedling Device. Dermatologic Surgery, 38(7), pp.1107-1108.
- Cohen, B. and Elbuluk, N., 2016. Microneedling in skin of color: A review of uses and efficacy. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 74(2), pp.348-355.